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Climbing >> New Routes >> Barrenjoey
 

Barrenjoey, Sydney

See the Sun, Surf and Sandstone Barrenjoey page to orient yourself within the crag.

Dear Sukie (9) 11m

Start: 3m right of Ray's Moppy, from the obvious square boulder. Small cam possible in horizontal break. Straight up (no more pro) to top. Tree/boulder anchor.

Ray Haak, Catherine Stofka 28 January 2008

The next three climbs are on the face to the left of Insomnia Cave Rock.

More Tea Vicar? (11) 9m

The blunt arête on the left side of the face. Up the arête with natural protection to double bolt belay.

Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak May 2004

Baby Steps (10) 9m

2m left of Orbs Dilated Glory. Take easiest start slightly right of bolt line to gain top of bulge, step left then easily up past 2 BRs and optional medium cam in horizontal break near top. Double bolt belay.
Niall Doherty 16 Oct 2005 (self-belayed – badly)

No Sorry It Makes Me Fart (14) 9m

Start as for Baby Steps. On top of bulge step right then up past 2 BRs and medium cam in crack. Double bolt belay.

The first ascent was performed without bolts but the ascentionists recommend that they be used now that they are fitted!

Mark O’Sullivan, Ray Haak May 2004

Ray's Moppy (11) 10m

Start: Marked as 'M',10 metres L of descent gully (L of Ikon). Up slab, 1 metre right of arête, small cam, mantle, medium cam, up crack, medium cam, slab to top. Tree belay.

Ray Haak, John Shaw 16 July 2005

Carrie Bradshaw (14) 12m

Between Starboard Barnacles and Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BR, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double bolt belay.

Niall Doherty 8 June 2003