Medlow Bath (Reservoir Dogs Area), Blue Mountains

See the Reservoir Dogs page for details.

Medlow Bath (Coliseum Area), Blue Mountains

Love, Beauty and Danger (23, 21) 45m

"Without love, beauty and danger, it would almost be easy to live". (Propaganda, A Secret Wish, 1985)

This excellent two pitch bolted route starts from the Coliseum track, below the Sunbath area. It climbs an arete which is directly below Gimme Shelter (directions to GS are below). If the first pitch is too hard for you, the better and easier second pitch can be accessed by rapping in from the bottom of GS.

To find the climb, go down from the Sunbath area by following the directions in the Valley Descent section below. At the bottom of the descent a painted sign and arrow on the rock points left to the Coliseum. Descend some steps through a cleft in the rock, walk 40 metres to the bottom of a dip, cross a fallen log, then walk another 40 metres. LSB is a square cut arete on the left. Got a GPS? Coordinates at the base of the climb are S 33° 40.331', E 150° 16.499'.

Pitch 1 (23) 20m

Stick clip and batman to the first bolt (the lower moves can be freed at about grade 25, but the crimpers are fragile and won't last). If bringing a second up the pitch, hang a long sling from the first bolt so that they can use it for aid. Thin arete moves past three more bolts to a rest. After that, balancy moves (with one balancy clip!) and a tough mantle to another rest. Move right under the roof, then wild moves up and around the lip to the desperate anchor clip.

9 RB to a DRB hanging belay. To reduce rope drag at the lip, use extenders (60cm is good) on the two bolts under the roof. Keep a long draw for the anchor!

Pitch 2 (21) 25m

Hard move off the belay, then classic arete slapping and laying away with a couple of hands free rests. Exposed and atmospheric. Finishes at a good stance. 11 RB to a DRB belay. To escape, carefully scramble 10m up the slope to the gravel ledge at the base of Gimme Shelter - best to belay each other and sling a bush on the way up. There are double rings at the base of GS to top belay the second person.

This pitch can be accessed from above using the double rings at the base of GS. Belay each other down the 10m loose slope to the belay stance. Probably easier to leave that rope in place and use another to rap down to the hanging belay at the top of pitch 1. A 50m rope might just do it on rope stretch but tie knots in the ends! Rap down the outside (valley side) of the arete, not the side with the bolts on it.

P1 Niall Doherty 1 October 2006
P2 Niall Doherty, Rod Smith 2 July 2006

Medlow Bath (Valley Descent), Blue Mountains

From the bottom of the zigzag descent to The Sunbath area, follow the track that runs under the climbs on the rock platform (Old Salt etc) towards the cliff edge. This leads to some old railing posts and wire, followed by steps cut into the rock. Descend these, through a cleft in the rock, down a set of wooden steps then a steel ladder. At the bottom of the ladder there is a ledge to the left (facing in). There is a ring bolt here to protect the move off the track onto the ledge, with a carrot a bit further out.

The double bolt belay at the far end of this ledge is for The Big Easy. This is not a new climb, but has not previously been recorded in full detail.

The triple bolt belay halfway out this ledge is for Virgins with Rifles, and is the top anchor for Bus Stop Boxer.

The Big Easy (15) 17m

Straight up from the belay, following the grade out to the blunt arete and back in again. 8 BR to belay chains.

Glenn Short, Pam Mort mid-90's

Virgins with Rifles (19) 15m

Wander up past 1 BR to a FH, then stay slightly left of 4 RB to join TBE.

Niall Doherty, Hamish Kerr 12 August 2006

Carry on down the valley descent to the bottom. A painted sign and arrow on the rock points right to the Valley Farm. Follow this for about 30m. BSB is on a black rock face on the right, adjacent to a collapsed area forming a roof. The corner a few metres to the right is pitch 1 of an old trad climb called All Sorts.

Bus Stop Boxer (19) 20 m

Up trending left to gain a large break/cave, jump (if not tall) (crux) out of break, then up and right. 8 RB then 1 BR to ledge and belay as for VWR. (Optional #0.75 Camalot between first and second rings).

Niall Doherty 12 August 2006

Medlow Bath (Sunbath Area), Blue Mountains

Empty Chairs (19) 10m

Start: as for Schwing.

Up, staying right of S, after second RB move up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

Niall Doherty 2 July 2006

The Lottery of Latitude (13) 20m

To find the start, go left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing (which is in the "Blue Mountains Climbing" guide book by Martin Pircher and Simon Carter), and walk 7m along the ledge to the start of the head height roof, which has a belay ring.

Clip into the belay ring! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson 2 July 2006

Gimme Shelter (19) 35m

To find the start, go left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing (which is in the "Blue Mountains Climbing" guide book by Martin Pircher and Simon Carter), walk (carefully) 15m or so along the ledge to where the red gravel ends. There are two belay rings at head height at the bottom of a half-light/half-dark vertical wall under a roof about 5m up.

Because of the route's length, to facilitate getting off there is an intermediate 2 RB anchor at a stance about halfway. It can be climbed as two pitches but FA was as one pitch.

Up vertical chossy wall, move right around roof, hard move up then easily up and left. Ring bolts/U-bolts all the way. 14 draws plus 2 anchor carabiners required to climb as one pitch. If done separately, first pitch requires 7 draws plus anchor, second pitch 6 draws plus anchor.

Leader can be lowered to the halfway anchor with a 60m rope - tie a knot in the belayer's end! Best to clean the lower section on rappel to avoid excessive rope rub around the edge of the roof.

Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly 14 April 2006

Cardinal Fang (17) 15m

Start a couple of metres to the right of Ole Biscuit Barrel (Medlow Bath Sector 2 in the "Blue Mountains Climbing" guide book by Martin Pircher and Simon Carter). Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR in total.

Niall Doherty 20 January 2004

Mañana (14) 22m

8 BR to a 2 RB belay. Straight up a vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting!

Access: Find Kaboomba Brothers (4) in the "Blue Mountains Climbing" guide book by Martin Pircher and Simon Carter. From there walk a few metres up a small rise, over that and down a little, then follow the contour for 40m or so. As you approach you will see straight ahead an imposing grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. The route runs up the middle of this face.

Peter Chaly, Niall Doherty 10 May 2003

Note from the first ascentionists:

We've cleaned this route of loose material and really friable rock. It does, however, have many thin flakes which could break if abused. Good technique will avoid this! Find the holds that are composed of thicker rock - they are there - and don't over-haul on them. Place your toes to the inside of ironstone flakes, not at the very edge.