Mt Boyce, Blue Mountains

Life of Your Time (21) 20m

Single pitch sport route.

Access: follow the abseilers' track down the gully towards Penny Arcade, as described on page 170 of Blue Mountains Climbing 2010 Edition. The route is on the dark orange wall halfway down the track where it touches the right side of the gully.

Difficult start then three cruxes. There's a good rest near the top however. 9 ring bolts to a 2 U-bolt lower off.

FA Niall Doherty, George Muraoka 7 Nov 2010

Penny Arcade (20, 18, 18) 54m

This three pitch bolted route climbs the prominent arête visible looking north 200m across the valley from the top of the Mt Boyce Abseil Wall area. The first pitch is quite tough, but it is straightforward to abseil in to just climb the excellent second and third, grade 18, pitches. Full details can be found on the Mt Boyce web site.

Niall Doherty, Roger Bourne 4 February 2007

Cat's in the Cradle (17, 19, 16) 53m

This three pitch bolted route ascends the dark grey slab between Plastic Sturgeon and Jugantor. Starts at the bottom left of the slab, just right of a vegetated diagonal crack/ramp.

The route can also be accessed from above: scramble down 3m behind the prow at the top of Jugantor, then walk 3m along a narrow ledge to double rings. You won't be able to pull a rope through these rings from the bottom of the climb. If you have two ropes, it's best to leave one on the rings to rappel down, then climb back up on the other. A 50m rope will just make it to the ground from here. Tie a knot in the end.

Alternatively do an initial short rappel to the top of P2 from where you should be able to pull the rope. You can then rappel to the top of P1, and then to the ground. Again, a 50m rope will just make the middle rappel. Tie knots in the ends.

Access to the top of Jugantor etc is described on the Mt Boyce web site at http://www.tyawan.com/mountboyce/RouteDescriptions.htm, with an access map at http://www.tyawan.com/mountboyce/Images/Sml/Boyce_Map_big.GIF. There is a photo topo at http://www.tyawan.com/mountboyce/Toad_Hall.htm.

Got a GPS? Coordinates for the top of the Jugantor prow are S 33° 36.795', E 150° 15.874'.

P1 (17) 20m

Awkward start from horizontal tree trunk just above the track. Up trending right for 10m to gain break with hands, then traverse right for 10m to DRB in large horizontal break. 9 RB to hanging belay.

P2 (19) 25m

Excellent and challenging pitch. Toughish face moves for a few metres, then the angle eases to a thin slab, with a very balancy crux 3/4 way up. Trust your feet! 10 RB to DRB belay on good stance.

P3 (16) 8m

Up trending right to bulge with large ironstone flakes, over bulge then easily up. 5 RB to DRB on good ledge.

Niall Doherty, Peter Chaly 14 October 2006