New York, Blue Mountains

Mike Patterson and John Croker have managed to squeeze some trad routes into this popular sport climbing area.

Location: the routes are all next to "Floyd the Barber", New York, found on page 212 of "Blue Mountains Climbing", Pircher/Carter, Third Edition, August 2002. The description for "Floyd" mentions the "small pinnacle" which Mike (his words) has egotistically named "Patterson's Pinnacle"!

Patterson's Pinnacle (14) 9m

Obvious small pinnacle left of Floyd the Barber.

Peak bagging for the sake of it!

Start on left hand side of pinnacle on bouldery pockets/scopes mantling up and left then moving right to arete passing good 1½ friend pocket. Up arete and face on right using crack for wire protection. Belay on top of pinnacle with sling belay around bollard and a suggested backrope belay from tree below. Ingenuity and backrope required for descent.

Mike Patterson, John Croker 6/9/2003

(A direct route should be possible up left hand side of face of pinnacle facing away from cliff).

Lily the Pink (14) 12m

Right facing corner crack 6m right of Floyd the Barber. Up laid back crack then past overhang on right. Move right under big roof/cave to belay.

Mike Patterson, John Croker 6/9/2003

Cranky Monkey (17) 15m

Slightly harder and not as laid back as it looks from below.

Crack right of Lily the Pink. Start on slab 3m right of Lily the Pink. Move diagonally right across lichenous slab to crack. Move up dusty/lichenous crack taking care on fragile orange rock at base. Cruxy top out then up face/bulge on right. Good tree belay. Direct start possible on thin crack in corner below and right.

John Croker, Mike Patterson 6/9/2003