Reservoir Dogs, Medlow Bath, Blue Mountains

This rap-in halfway ledge is situated between the Sunbath and Sporting Complex areas of Medlow Bath, with the Hydro Majestic dominating the skyline above. The cliff face is mostly dead vertical and contains five two-pitch bolted routes and one two-pitch trad outing, all just under 40m long. The large ledge, the area above and the climbs themselves feature spectacular views out over the Megalong Valley.

To find the crag (see map below) follow the track down from Belgravia St past the circular sunbath itself to the lookout above Schwing. Turn left and follow the clifftop path. (The crag is visible, 100m away to the south, from the next lookout).

From here the path goes in around a wooded gully then back out towards the cliff. It swings left with a thicket of banksias on the right. Where these start to open out there is an old indistinct set of man-made steps heading down to the cliff edge. If you get to where the path turns sharp left you have gone 10m too far.

(GPS coordinates S 33° 40.480', E 150° 16.544').

At the bottom of the steps look a few metres to the right to find a pair of fixed hangers at the top of a small gully. (The hangers are grey and can be difficult to spot). Use your own carabiners and slings on these to rap down the short 45 degree sloped gully then the cliff itself. A 50m rope is easily long enough. It is best to bring a rope for this purpose and leave it in place.

The route you rap down is Bohemiath. If you wish to climb this route and not have the rap rope in the way you could rap from the top anchor of Stuck in the Middle with You, a few metres north - two rings a metre back from the cliff edge, set in a cavelet underneath a boulder.

The crag is in the sun from 1:00pm in summer.

Routes are described left to right facing the cliff. See photo topo.

Abbreviations
BR = bolt runner (requires bolt bracket)
RB = ring bolt
FH = fixed hanger

I Don't Tip (15, 12) 36m

Note: The bolts on this route have 17mm heads and PFH hangers are fiddly to fit BUT THEY DO GO ON BECAUSE THEY WERE USED ON THE FIRST ASCENT. The bolt heads will be filed in the near future.

Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

Pitch 1 (15) 14m

Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

Pitch 2 (12) 22m

Up trending right on fragile large ironstones, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top. Notice the rusty carrot sticking out of the rock here with home made fixed hanger, a relic from a bygone age.

FA Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson 15 Dec 2007

K-Billy's Super Sounds of the 70s (17, 10) 36m Trad

Start marked "KB". Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Pitch 1 (17) 20m

Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

Pitch 2 (10) 16m

Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

FA Niall Doherty, Mike Patterson (alt), Josh Dodson 15 Dec 2007

Let's Get a Taco (18, 17) 36m

Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

Pitch 1 (18) 19m

Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

Pitch 2 (17) 17m

Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Really only worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. Grunt off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

FA Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts 2 Jun 2007

Each of the next three routes are fairly straight and could be climbed in one long pitch if you have sufficient endurance, but the large horizontal break makes a comfortable semi-hanging belay and allows two climbers to lead one pitch each. On all of the routes the nature of the climbing is quite different on each pitch.

Stuck in the Middle with You (19, 18) 38m

Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

Pitch 1 (19) 19m

A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

Pitch 2 (18) 19m

Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

FA Niall Doherty, Anna Beardmore, Charlie Watts 2 Jun 2007

Bohemiath (20, 18) 37m

Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

Pitch 1 (20) 19m

Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to twin-shackle belay/lower-off at the big horizontal.

Pitch 2 (18) 18m

Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to 2FH belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in hangers a few metres further up.

FA Niall Doherty, Rod Smith (alt) 24 Feb 2008

Mr Orange (20, 21) 38m

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

Pitch 1 (20) 20m

Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascentionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

Pitch 2 (21) 18m

Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.

P1 FA Niall Doherty 2 Jun 2007
P2 FA Niall Doherty, Rod Smith 13 Oct 2007