Arapiles Closure

Along with ACANSW, we are highlighting the recent draft plan that will significantly impact climbing at Arapiles-Tooan State Park if it proceeds. The situation is fluid to say the least but there is a real potential to lose climbing access to Arapiles.

We are engaging across many fronts with a variety of stakeholders. But we need grass roots support to reach out to as many individuals as possible to try and limit this latest plan that would irreparably alter climbing in Australia. The significance of this situation cannot be underestimated.

We have linked an open letter from climbing organisations across Australia to the Victorian Premier and minister for Parks Victoria that we hope you will consider and sign. 

Read and sign here.

Also feel free to share it amongst your climbing networks. Businesses and other organisations are also able to sign.

Trip Report - New York 29 May 2022

An all expenses paid trip to New York (no, just the crag...)

Four of us in the end, after a couple of late cancellations, ventured out to New York near Mt Victoria on a cool morning. The sun was shining and the West Side of the crag sheltered us from the cold westerly breeze, so T-shirt climbing was the go for the first couple of hours. Spoonbender (15) and Factotum (17) provided the warm up laps before Gavin and Adrian began Spanking De Sade (21, maybe 22), a challenging arete, while Greg and Bernard achieved some Synchronicity (18) with a tricky slab crux and then enjoyed a quick run up in the sun on the Winter Slab (14). After that we moved over to the lower East Side, where Greg and Bernard attempted to hear the Silence of the Cams (19 - or really 21?), while Adrian and Gavin provided some alternative background noises in the form of a Moan Groan Dial Tone (22). The afternoon wore on with cooler temperatures and a bit less sun, so a quick run up an Unknown 1 (14) on the Two Carrots wall to finish the day was the last feast for us.

Bernard Pfeil, trip leader

Gavin Spanking De Sade (21-22)

Adrian providing a Moan Groan Dial Tone (22)

Greg (belaying) Bernard's efforts at becoming a Spoonbender (15)

Must-Do Sport Multi-Pitches

Best to start with climbs that have easy access and no abseil required:

• Moonlighting the Renovations, Mt York (grade 17, 35m, 2 pitches)

• Here Be Dragons, Mt Gibraltar (grade 18, 52m, 4 pitches)

• Schwing, Medlow Bath (grade 18, 46m, 2 pitches)

• Whymper, Sublime Point (grade 19, 150m, 5 pitches)

• Weld Party, Bald Head (grade 19, 80m, 3 pitches)

• Penny Arcade, Mt Boyce (grade 20, 54m, 3 pitches)

• Big Bird, Mt Gibraltar (grade 20, 65m, 3 pitches)

• Saccharine Nightmare, Sublime Point (grade 22, 100m, 4 pitches)

The next routes all require an abseil, but have access to the base of the climb or easy escape from an adjacent easy route:

• Let’s Get a Taco, Medlow Bath (grade 18, 36m, 2 pitches)

• Stuck in the Middle with You, Medlow Bath (grade 19, 38m, 2 pitches)

• Bohemiath, Medlow Bath (grade 20, 37m, 2 pitches)

• Mr Orange, Medlow Bath (grade 21, 38m, 2 pitches)

• My Way or the Highway, Medlow Bath (grade 21, 39m, 2 pitches)

Multi-pitch abseiling is required for the next ones:

• Mr Big, James Bond (grade 19, 85m, 3 pitches)

• Dirty Rotten Pig, Rhum Dhu (grade 19, 130m, 4 pitches)

• The Rift, Heathcliff (grade 19, 55m, 3 pitches)

• Cats in the Cradle, Mt Boyce (grade 19, 53m, 3 pitches)

These ones have no escape from the base, so you would need to get back to the top somehow:

• Whale of a Time, Scarborough Cliffs (grade 16, 50m, 3 pitches)

• Bellbird Wall, Pulpit Rock (grade 18, 100m, 3 pitches)

• Keenes Hobble, Bald Head (grade 17, 65m, 3 pitches)

Pierce’s pass has an escape from the base, but very long bushbashing:

• West Face of the Mirrorball, Pierce’s Pass (grade 19, 120m, 4 pitches)

• Bunny Bucket Buttress, Pierce’s Pass (grade 18, 270m, 8 pitches)