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  • geoffmcooper

An all expenses paid trip to New York (no, just the crag...)

Four of us in the end, after a couple of late cancellations, ventured out to New York near Mt Victoria on a cool morning. The sun was shining and the West Side of the crag sheltered us from the cold westerly breeze, so T-shirt climbing was the go for the first couple of hours. Spoonbender (15) and Factotum (17) provided the warm up laps before Gavin and Adrian began Spanking De Sade (21, maybe 22), a challenging arete, while Greg and Bernard achieved some Synchronicity (18) with a tricky slab crux and then enjoyed a quick run up in the sun on the Winter Slab (14). After that we moved over to the lower East Side, where Greg and Bernard attempted to hear the Silence of the Cams (19 - or really 21?), while Adrian and Gavin provided some alternative background noises in the form of a Moan Groan Dial Tone (22). The afternoon wore on with cooler temperatures and a bit less sun, so a quick run up an Unknown 1 (14) on the Two Carrots wall to finish the day was the last feast for us.

Bernard Pfeil, trip leader

Gavin Spanking De Sade (21-22)

Adrian providing a Moan Groan Dial Tone (22)

Greg (belaying) Bernard's efforts at becoming a Spoonbender (15)

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  • geoffmcooper

Updated: Dec 5, 2022

Best to start with climbs that have easy access and no abseil required:

  • Moonlighting the Renovations, Mt York (grade 17, 35m, 2 pitches)

  • Here Be Dragons, Mt Gibraltar (grade 18, 52m, 4 pitches)

  • Schwing, Medlow Bath (grade 18, 46m, 2 pitches)

  • Whymper, Sublime Point (grade 19, 150m, 5 pitches)

  • Weld Party, Bald Head (grade 19, 80m, 3 pitches)

  • Penny Arcade, Mt Boyce (grade 20, 54m, 3 pitches)

  • Big Bird, Mt Gibraltar (grade 20, 65m, 3 pitches)

  • Saccharine Nightmare, Sublime Point (grade 22, 100m, 4 pitches)

The next routes all require an abseil, but have access to the base of the climb or easy escape from an adjacent easy route:

  • Let’s Get a Taco, Medlow Bath (grade 18, 36m, 2 pitches)

  • Stuck in the Middle with You, Medlow Bath (grade 19, 38m, 2 pitches)

  • Bohemiath, Medlow Bath (grade 20, 37m, 2 pitches)

  • Mr Orange, Medlow Bath (grade 21, 38m, 2 pitches)

  • My Way or the Highway, Medlow Bath (grade 21, 39m, 2 pitches)

Multi-pitch abseiling is required for the next ones:

  • Mr Big, James Bond (grade 19, 85m, 3 pitches)

  • Dirty Rotten Pig, Rhum Dhu (grade 19, 130m, 4 pitches)

  • The Rift, Heathcliff (grade 19, 55m, 3 pitches)

  • Cats in the Cradle, Mt Boyce (grade 19, 53m, 3 pitches)

These ones have no escape from the base, so you would need to get back to the top somehow:

  • Whale of a Time, Scarborough Cliffs (grade 16, 50m, 3 pitches)

  • Bellbird Wall, Pulpit Rock (grade 18, 100m, 3 pitches)

  • Keenes Hobble, Bald Head (grade 17, 65m, 3 pitches)

Pierce’s pass has an escape from the base, but very long bushbashing:

  • West Face of the Mirrorball, Pierce’s Pass (grade 19, 120m, 4 pitches)

  • Bunny Bucket Buttress, Pierce’s Pass (grade 18, 270m, 8 pitches)

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  • geoffmcooper

A group of 8 ventured into the icy Bell Supercrag and for many this was their first visit to this sport climbing paradise. Temperature with strong wind chill was -2.1 to 1.4 degrees with gusts of 57km/h which was not all that pleasant, but with recent rainy months it was just great to be in the mountains.

We started the day at the Jean Jaures Wall with the popular long climbs Fly Fury (19) and Slip, Snap, Splash (18). The funky corner/arete route The Panadol Factory (18) was a nice climb but very hard to clean and belay on top rope due to the multiple ledges and edges that cause significant rope drag. Den, Anthony and Adrian also cleanly led La Femme Flic (20) which is the standout climb here. All these routes need a 60 metre rope to get back to the ground.

Later we headed to Duck Wall which was better protected from the wind and a nice sunny afternoon. Duck Tits (21) was popular with the group as some of us warmed down on the shorter Gosling (18) and Rabbit Season, Duck Season (16).

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